Alexandria is a city of the invisible and longing. Many years ago my father spent time here as a young man and, when he died, he left me scrapbooks of memorabilia to prove where he had been. For instance, I know that he went to a shop called Khan Khalil to buy his mother a bag because I still have the bill.

So that our paths would cross again, I decided to see Khan Khalil for myself or what was left of it. Although I was prepared that it would be long gone and forgotten, I was completely unprepared that it not only still exists but is completely unchanged! With its art deco façade and ancient display cases, Khan Khalil is a perfectly preserved piece of history from a vanished world. It is thick with ghosts.